Just because the two have similar names does not mean they are of the same type. I walked into the Pantheon expecting a temple and I got a church. I must really want to go to Greece.
The Pantheon was not a letdown, however, because of two things. First, the outside is just as beautiful as the inside. I've seen many basilicas where the outside was not impressive at all, but the inside was mindblowing. While the inside of the Pantheon was great, I felt that the front of the church was the real show, would stunning columns that seem to be geometrically, the most appealing to the eye. The second thing is Raphael's tomb, which is inside the Pantheon. He is buried in the same building as 2 other kings. The tomb inscription, written by the Pope, is what blew me away. It reads: "Here lies Raphael, by whom Nature feared to be outdone while he was alive, and when he died, feared that she herself would die." That is probably the highest compliment that an artist can get. Plus, if you can think of a more badass tomb inscription, let me know.
I left the Pantheon and walked towards Piazza Nuovo. I had heard that the plaza is very nice at night, but I won't have time or energy to go back. The plaza was filled with street artists who are trying to sell watercolors, paintings and drawings.
The fountains in the square are great works of art, with multiple sculptures as part of the design. I also went into the church, the Chiesa Sant'Agnese in Agone, which was small, but filled with great reliefs. No pictures were allowed, however, so I bought a few postcards.
I headed on over to the Palazzo Altemps, the first museum of the day, just across the square. The entire museum is a sculpture museum, and photos were allowed. The museum was originally a small palace, as the name suggests, and it was filled with not only sculptures and head busts of philosophers, kings and God's, but also wall frescos and its own chapel. There were also Egyptian style sculptures, but most of the museum was Greek and Roman art.
After the museum, I stopped for a bit of kiwi-flavoured gelato and then proceeded towards the Crypta Balbi. I should note that all these museums are the same ticket for 6.5 euros, so it's a pretty good deal. One my way to the Crypta Balbi, I dropped into another church, but I forgot the name of this one. It's just south of the Piazza Nuovo. I have some pictures of it though.
The Crypta Balbi was quite interesting in that while the museum was quite small and uninteresting, there were several guided visits to the archaeological sites just beneath and behind the museum. I went to two areas separately, but the map was in Italian and the guides didn't speak much English, so I didn't learn s much as I could have. On the first visit, the underground, signs in English were available, and I think there was a crypt and theatre built on the location of the museum, which as improved upon through the ages. I assume that the second location that I visited, which was in a semi-circle shape on the map, was the theatre.
I had pasta at a sit-down restaurant at lunch, but it as mediocre. Obviously, I was aching for some better food. I went to one last church for today, and I believe the name was Chiesa del Gesu. I can't be sure though, again, due to bad memory. It was a short stop, but up a long doubt of stairs. In between my 4 museums with the same ticket, I decided to do the Museo Capitolini, which was a pleasant surprise. It cost an expensive 10 euros, but luckily, they accepted Visa. The main attraction was an exhibition they were hosting, the Vatican Archives. There were tons of cool documents, such as Galileo's trial documentation when he was tried by the church as a heretic, the Edict of Worms, which was used against the monk Martin Luther, etc. Letters from an emperor of Japan and am empress of China to the Pope were also made available for viewing, along with the Order of Golden Spur given to Mozart, which was one of the highest honours the Pope can give.
Those were just some of the interesting examples to go along documents relating to the conclave, including a seating plan for the Cardinals in the Sistine Chapel. Outside the Vatican Archives exhibit were your typical sculptures, head busts, etc. I think the main attraction outside the exhibit is the original monument for the Roman Emperor Marcus Aerelius, as a copy was sitting just outside in the plaza directly between the two buildings that made up the museum. I skimmed through the art gallery on the top floor and the sculptures in the other building, as I was looking to go through the two other museums that were included with my Palazzo Altemps ticket too.
The other two museums, Palazzo Massimo and Terme di Diocleziano, were not that special. I was mostly looking forward to seeing another building that was a Roman bathhouse for the latter, but the building now housed exhibits on ancient writing and Epigraphy.
When I got back to the hostel, it was already 7:30pm and I needed dinner. I walked around for a bit, but ultimately went back to Mama Angela's. Before you all rip me for not trying new things, I should note that all the other decently priced restaurants that I tried weren't very good, whether it was at lunch, or in one case, dinner. I should also point out that decent tipping paid off, as the waiter from my first night remembered me and gave me some decent recommendations. He pointed out that they just changed sauces for one of their main dishes that was not yet reflected on the menu, and even got me a better wine that was off the menu for the same price as the one I was about to choose. The whole meal cost me 15 euros, which is far from expensive, given the quality. I would say that the meal was probably second best in Italy behind Gino's pizza, and the wine also second best behind the 2001 Chianti that I had on my last night in Naples. The wine I had tonight was definitely more intense and darker though.
Enough talk - pictures! This is also it for Italy, I'm off to France!
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